Saturday 4 March 2017

Bhutan (Druk Yul) - Land of Thunder Dragon


I had been to Bhutan before in my childhood and the natural beauty of Bhutan is still etched in my mind. Bhutan ticked all the boxes when we were deciding on our honeymoon destination. Few of the reasons being:
  1. Safety (One of the safest countries for travelers.)
  2. No visa is required for Indian citizens (All tourists excluding Indian, Bangladeshi and Maldivian passport holders who wish to travel to Bhutan require a visa and must book their holiday through a Bhutanese tour operator or one of their international partners.)
  3. Bhutan's concept of Gross National Happiness (Happy people radiate positive energy.) 
  4. Less crowded (Tourism Council of Bhutan's policy of "High Value. Low Impact" tourism)
Spring(March, April, May) is the best time to visit Bhutan. End of April and May is the time when, the flowers are in full bloom in the valleys. Autumn (September, October, November) is another favorable and crowded season after spring. Mild weather makes it a perfect time to visit Bhutan with added attraction of chance to see Black-necked cranes during late October to mid February in the Phobjikha Valley. Summer(June, July, August) can be considered if, you would like to avoid the higher tariff and the cold of winter. Summer offers green forests and flourishing paddy fields, pulsating with energy and life, against a backdrop of the clear blue sky after the rain.

We obtained our entry permit for Bhutan from Royal Bhutan Consulate, Kolkata. Indians are required to carry one copy of passport size photograph and any of the two valid 'Travel Documents' 
  1. Valid Indian Passport having validity of minimum 6 months, and/or
  2.  Voter Identity Card, issued by the Election Commission of India 
For more information on entry permit : Indian Embassy, Thimphu, Bhutan  and Consulate General of India Phuentsholing, Bhutan
For non-Indian travelers : Tourism Council of Bhutan (Official Website)


DAY 1(19/05/2015)

We reached Hasimara (a small town in Jalpiguri district of West Bengal) by train at around 10:30 AM. Hasimara is 17 kms from Jaigoan which is the Indian town touching Indo-Bhutan border. Next we took a taxi directly to Phuentsholing, border town of Bhutan.

Note: There is a time difference of half an hour between India and Bhutan. Bhutan is 30 mins ahead of India.


Bhutan Gate, Jaigoan-Phuentsholing

After crossing over to the Bhutanese side
We were dropped off at a taxi stand on our request and from there we reserved a taxi for next 10 days of our journey, after a bit of bargaining. Without wasting another moment, we headed off towards Paro. As we moved further away from Phuentsholing and continued on the meandering road, suddenly the weather started to get a bit chilly.

Road to Paro

We stopped at a road side Hotel/Resturant/Bar for our lunch break. Bhutanese cuisine is influenced by Chinese, Tibetan and Indian culture. After going through the menu we settled for Thupka, Hakka Noodles and Tea.

Thukpa and Hakka Noodles

Having satisfied our hunger we continued on our way. The Phuentsholing-Thimphu highway splits into Paro-Thimphu highway and Bumthang-Ura highway at the confluence of Paro river(Pa Chhu or Paro Chhu) and Thimphu river(Wang Chu). Rest of the journey we drove along the Paro river to reach one of the most beautiful valleys in Bhutan, Paro Valley. The charming town of Paro lies nestled in the picturesque valley on the bank of Paro river. Soon we checked into our hotel to rest up and get ready for the next day.


DAY 2(20/05/2015)

We slept like babies in the arms of mother nature, comforted by Paro river's soft lullaby, gently flowing by our bedroom window. We woke up to a stunning view.

View from the bed room window

We got ready and decided to explore the area around our resort before our driver arrives. If the saying that, morning shows the day is true, we were in for a feast for our senses.

View from the front porch of  our cottage

Paro river flowing gently

Mesmerizing morning in the Paro Valley

We soaked up the beautiful morning atmosphere and headed off towards Paro Taktsang aka Taktsang Palphug Monastery and the Tiger's Nest Monastery. Taktsang in Tibetan language means Tiger's lair. According to a legend, it is believed that Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) flew to this location from Tibet on the back of a tigress from Khenpajong.

An alternative legend speaks of a former wife of an emperor, known as Yeshe Tsogyal. She willingly became a disciple of Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambahva) in Tibet. She then transformed herself into a tigress and carried the Guru on her back from Tibet to the present location of the Taktsang in Bhutan. In one of the caves here, the Guru then performed meditation and emerged in eight incarnated forms (manifestations) and the place became holy. Subsequently, the place came to be known as the “Tiger's Nest”

It is one of the most sacred sites in Bhutan.The monastery as we see it now was built in 1692. Situated at a height of over 10000 feet on the face of a sheer cliff, Taktsang is the birthplace of Bhutanese Buddhism. A trip to Bhutan is said to be incomplete without hiking to Taktsang. It is a full day activity and believe me, its not that difficult to reach the top. Couple of points for first timers :
  • Do the hike at the end of your trip to give you more time to acclimatize to the altitude.
  • Wear sturdy and comfortable sport shoes, preferably hiking shoes.
  • There is a cafeteria almost at the midpoint of the trek.(Also serves vegetarian meals for lunch)
  • Carry water bottle in you bag with some fruits and snacks, as you need to stay hydrated.
  • It is a better idea to start trekking with light breakfast.
  • It is best to start early as it is a full day activity.
  • Ponies are available till the cafeteria.(Safety is a concern)
  • Monastery is closed in afternoon from 1:00 PM to 2:00 PM. (Plan accordingly)
  • One needs to carry ID proof on them and should be dressed conservatively to enter the monastery.
  • One has to register with the security at the entrance and deposit bags and cameras(Photography is not allowed inside the monastery).
  • The trek is not advised for people with heart /BP problem(consult your doctors). It is a bit difficult for aged people and small kids(We have seen old people and people with small kids up there).
As we did not take time to acclimatize ourselves to the altitude it was a bit difficult for us, but we kept on going. Most people who do not complete the trek return back from the cafeteria. We took it slow and had a break of about an hour in the cafeteria, while we sipped on a cup of tea with biscuits and relished the charming view. We thoroughly enjoyed the pristine fresh air, rhododendrons, cypress trees and  panoramic views of Paro valley covered in pine forest.

Glimpse of Taktsang

Glimpses of the monastery at various stages of the trail egged us on. The steps at the end of the trail might be challenging for someone with acrophobia. As we reached the monastery, we felt a sense of great achievement. The monastery from inside is very peaceful. The monastery buildings consist of four main temples and residential shelters ideally designed by adapting to the rock (granite) ledges, the caves and the rocky terrain. Once inside you can take your time to pray or introspect as no one rushes you. After having paid your respects, take your time to take in as much of the beauty of the surroundings and the valley below as possible. It is truly once in a life time experience.


People registering with the security at the entrance


DAY 3(21/05/2015)

After a night of deep, rejuvenating rest we were ready for our third day in Bhutan. Our first stop was at Kyichu Lhakhang. Originally built in the 7th century by a Tibetan Emperor, it is is one of the oldest temples in Bhutan.





Next we stopped at Rinpung Dzong aka Paro Dzong. Dzong is a particular type of fortress with formidable exterior walls surrounding a complex of courtyards, temples, administrative offices, and monks' accommodation. Rinchen Pung Dzong (Rinpung Dzong), means 'Fortress on a Heap of Jewels'. In 1644 Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal ordered the construction of the dzong on the foundation of a monastery built by Guru Rinpoche. The woodwork, architecture, colourful paintings are very impressive and offer great views over Paro town.





Our last stop for the day was at the National Museum, Paro. Established in 1968, it houses some of the finest specimens of Bhutanese art, including masterpieces of bronze statues and paintings. In addition to that there is an excellent wildlife and geography exhibition too. No photography is allowed inside though. The view from the Museum Lobby is just breathtaking.

View from National Museum Lobby
DAY 4(22/05/2015)

We started our journey towards Thimphu early in the morning. Soon we crossed the Paro Airport and headed towards Chuzom(Confluence of Thimpu River & Paro river).

Note: Chuzom = Chhuzom (Chhu means river and zom means join)


Paro Airport
Paro Airport

At Chuzom we passed under a gateway arch to take the road towards Thimpu and on the right a huge welcome hoarding with picture of King and Queen was being displayed.


Chuzom
Gateway Arch at Chuzom & welcome hoarding
While traveling towards Thimpu we came across a natural rock formation resembling an elephant face. Some people believe it to be an image of the Hindu God, Lord Ganesha.

Natural rock formation resembling an elephant face

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2 comments:

  1. Awesome experience!!
    Should help me plan my trip too.

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